So first things first - this is not an exahustive guide of medibang and although I consider myself an veteran and expert of it by this point (due to how much i've fiddled with it and how often I poke around and keep up on updates)... This may not cover what YOU want to know.

If it doesn't, let me know and I'll look into adding an section for it!

Here's brushes. This one might be a little.... long, since there's a lot of stuff to go over, but that's why this page is set up in chapters with collapsibles! So cool!

Here's the buttons that we'll be focusing on mainly here. From left to right: "New default brush", "add from canvas or image", and "add brush script".

there's not many default brushes in Medibang, and that's because you have to either make them yourself or sign up for their cloud service (which is useful but I'll get into that in its own section later this page).

if you seelect the first option (it's just a page with no dropdown), you get an window like this. If you drop down the "type," that's what you get. That's the default brushes in medibang if you don't sign up for the icloud. They're useful and you can edit them as you want, but not much variety, right?

...that's where this comes in handy.

-from Canvas means it'll pull the image for the brush from the canvas you have open right now.

-From Canvas (Multi) means it'll use each layer of the canvas you have open as different parts of the same brush (useful for making weirdly-textured brushes or attemtping to make effects brushes special! like grass that varies!)

-From File is the most useful one and the one I use most of the time. It means you can search your computer for either an .png file (!) or an .mdp. That means you can covnert photoshop ABR files to .pngs and use these to make brushes.

however, regardless of option you choose, you now have to choose from five new types of brushes... But luckily for you, I'll go over them for you!

We'll go over these slowly, in order from first to last.


This one is what you'll usually use for lineart. It doesn't blend and it can be made to "jitter" its colors a little as you stroke.

Following is options that apply to every single brush type here with the exception of "Pattern".

How large the brush is.

-Min Width
How wide it's forced to be drawn at all points. 0% means it depends entirely on the pressure (or lack thereforth). 100% means it will always draw at max width possible. Useful for making it so some brushes taper or are always chiseled.

-Size By Pressure
Whether or not the brush will respond to your tablet pen's pressure. Unchecked makes it so it doesn't; checked means it will.

-Opacity by Pressure
Whether or not the brush fades in or out with pressure. Checked means it will; unchecked means it won't be opaque at all.


-Brush Spacing
How far the brush "images" are drawn from each other. 2 (current lowest) means closest together. 100 means furthest apart. You can use this to achieve things like seemingly "random" effects.

-Rotate Along
Whether the brush follows the direction of your pen. Checking it makes it so it does; unchecking it makes it so it draws in the same direction regardless. This is mostly useful for making "flat" brushes or making it so that the grass always faces upright no matter how you stroke, as an example.

-Rotate Angle
Which way the brush faces. Mostly useful if "Rotate Random" (below) is at 0. Play around with it to figure out which way you want it to face.

-Rotate Random
How each image drawn of the brush is rotated. 0 means not at all; 100 means entirely random. Very useful for making textures or making it so this batch of leaves, for example, is more or less random as you stroke along.

-Apply Foreground Color
Checked, it makes it so whatever color you have selected is the color it draws as. Unchecked, it's always black (unless the image file in question isn't drawn black, but more of gray, in which case it'll be lighter. -Color Jitter
How many shades of, say, black or blue it'll print for you. 0 means it will not derivate at all; 100 means it will derivate a lot as you draw.

-Hue Jitter
how many shades of the rainbow will be in it. 0 means none; 100 means quite a few.

Bitmap Watercolor.
Options unique to this are:

-Color Mixing Level
How much colors will mix with each other, i.e. blend. 0 means not at all; 100 means very easily.

How easily it keeps the color you stroke from, and how it keeps it as you stroke. Known as "dirty mode" in a lot of other programs as far as I can tell. Different from mixing. 100 means not at all; 0 means very easily.

Play around with options to see what works for you! Following are options unique to "scatter" (and watercolor).

Options unique to this are:

-Scatter Strength
How many of it that it draws in. 0 means not many at all; 100 means a lot. 100 is usually heavier loading.

-Particle Size
How big each invidivual particle is. 0 means Not big at all; 100 means very big.

-Particle Random
How much each particle invidivually may vary from its preset Particle Size. 0 means not at all; 100 means very largely.

Scatter Watercolor.
There's nothing unique here, because it combines both "Scatter" and "Bitmap Watercolor". Refer to these for what they mean.

-Soft Edge
Whether or not it's forced to have softness around the edges. Useful for things like scale texturing that blends.

-Random Displacement
Affects where the texture "starts" at. Makes it harder to scribble all over it and have it be seamless, but can make it seem truly randomly textured. 0 means not at all; 100 means extremely.

-Fixed Displacement Direction
Affects whether or not it'll only be fixed from where it starts if checked.

-Displacement direction
Where the texture will "start" at. I leave this at 0 most of the time. 0 means default space; 100 means elsewhere. Play with this to see what works best for you!

Misc. Options & Menus related to brushes

Brush Script.
These guys' options vary a lot, because guess what? they're actually programmed text files you put in that it reads from and it tells it what options to have. So you'll have to play with each invidivual one to see what they do.

Make a folder.
You can make categories like this and drag the brushes into them! You have to right-click the folder to move it however, by hitting "move up" or "move down". It can be tedious, so I recommend, if you're just starting out in Medibang, setting up categories you'd like beforehand before making a lot of brushes.

Duplicate currently selected brush.
This means you can... copy an brush you like, but want to change, so you can either edit the new copy or have an copy in case you don't like the new changes. I do this frequently! It's an useful function!

Cloud Panel Location
Where you go to access cloud brushes. ...Like below!

These are a bunch of nice brushes, generally brush scripts, officially made and curated by the devs behind Medibang.

Here is the area where you find the "text" tool, highlighted. It's on the left bar. It'll then pop up something after you click with it selected, like the image below:

Uncheck "Use Cloud Text Rendering" to use the fonts from your computer that you have installed; check it to use the ones Medibang provides on its own.

The "PT" box can be changed to "PT," or "PX," and PT is Point (as in the size in an report) and PX is Pixel.

Text Spacing is how far an single character is from the next and before. Line spacing is the space between lines (enter down to make a new line).

"Left Align Text" lets you align between Left, Center, or right, which is where it puts it at.

Edge Width (increase it to 1 px to see it) is an border around the text. Round edges makes it less pixelly, but it may be a little oddly shaped.

"Rotate" means what way it is rotated; 0 is not at all. Play around with it and see what's fun for you!

Here's where to find the selection tools, as well as the magic wand. I mostly use the square + Lasso selection tools.

Here's the properties at the top of the window when you have the shape select tool selected; all of these are pretty self-explanatory, especially if you've read the other sections of this page.

And here's the real meat of this section: the "Transform" function. It's a little tricky to understand, especially in making it so it doesn't always mirror each side, so here's how to do these things.

when you press hte "Transform" shortcut key/button while something is selected (usually T in programs as far as I understand, but I remapped that shortcut to F for ease of access), it'll bring up an menu like this under the canvas:

"FLIP" means it'll flip the image on the vertical scale, and Bicubic (Sharp) is an dropdown list that gives you options for how smoothed out the resizing should be.

However, the three important options here are:

-Free Transform
This, when checked, lets you transform freely, without proportions matching each other; meaning you can make something uneven on one side. Unchecked, you can only make it so it matches on all sides.

When checked, you can skew things as you want, making it so that you can lift something up and have it align to that perspective. It can be helpful in making it so that if you drew an house slightly off, you can resize it and skew it in the way you want/needed it to be.

-Lock Center
And, here, Lock Center, is an dropdown list that has another option:

This simply tells it where to start transforming from (the center of the image you have selected, or the corner), which in conjunction with "Free Transform," can help you transform things as you need to.

There's an section dedicated to layers in Medibang, so you can find it, but if there's any that you're confused about, let me know. They're constantly adding new kinds of layers too; at first, they only had multiply, add, divide, and overlay, from what I remember!

But there are a few more nuances here in the layers thing: There's watercolor edges, and halftone! But they're not here in the dropdown list!

To access the Water color Edge layer property, double click the layer you're on/want to convert to water color. It will pop up an window like this.

The "effect" box is what you want; in it, it shows this:

One is slightly softer than the other, so experiment and see what you like!

To access halftone, you want to look at the bottom of the layers panel, along the weird papers with numbers on them, for this specific one (highlighted in the image below):

This also lets you add an mask or stencil layer! But when you hit "add layer (Halftone), it'll give you quite a few options for them. Play around and see what you want to do with it!

I don't know very much about filters just as of yet, but I'll try my best to explain what I do know, and experiment with what I don't, so check back and I might have added a new explaination. Under the picture, i'll go over them in order.

Unsure right now. Come back later!

This is where you shift color hues at; it's two sliders and you slide them for saturation. I use this to shift around colors a bit to help color theory.

-Tone Curve
This is similiar to "Hue," but instead of sliders, you get to watch it change as you move around an line on an graph. It can be useful.

-Chromatic Abberation
You know these eye-searing TBG-saturated lines that people have sometimes? This can help do that! It's interesting! And very neon.

This one, I believe, inverts the colors. Pretty straightforward.

-Unsharp Mask
Unsure what this one does right now. Come back later!

-Gaussian Blur
Gaussian-style blur. Higher is more blurred; lower is not at all/barely, and I like to use it at an slight level.

-Motion Blur
An motion blur. It makes the blur kind of spiky at either side, like you'd just seen something swipe.

-Lens Blur
Unsure. Come back later!

This one applies an mosaic effect to what you did, and it's kinda nifty.

-Extracting Lines
unsure. Return later!

-Custom Noise
Unsure. Come back later!

-Japanese Pattern
This applies an "Japanese pattern," which is things you'd generally see on things such as kimonos and other such pieces of fashion. It's pretty handy.

-Line (Concetrated)
Unsure. Return later!

-Line (Parallel)
Unsure. Return later!

-Line (Sea Urchin Flash)
Unsure. Return later!

this one doesn't really need much of an explaination, it's more of just an way to help you if your medibang doesn't have an reference panel (or you're not sure how to use it). "Reference" in the list in the image below should be checked, and then you can drag it around as you want.

And below, an quick rundown of the controls so you can figure out how to use it.

left to right: "Access Cloud (of saved reference images)," import ref image from file on your computer, Delete Ref Image, zoom in, reset zoom, zoom out, pick color of ref image (which you can do by right-clicking it too!), and the hand, which is "move it around".

The highlighted area here is where you do the gradient! It's very straightforward. Make sure the two colors you want to use in it are both your fore-color and your back-color (refer to the transparency section to see where they are). The further you drag while holding down the pen (or mouse button or so-forth), the "longer" the gradient will be.

Here's where to get to it, and there's only two options that I need to go over here.

"Shape" is pretty handy and easy to explain; there are only two "shapes" right now at the time of writing this article, "Linear" and "Circular". Linear means it's like an rectangle in terms of gradient shape, and "Circular" means it does an gradient in kind of an circular shape. If you change between them, you'll see what I mean.

Here's the slightly more complicated one. There are three "types" here.
Foreground-Background means it uses both colors; the other two mean it uses "transparent" with an chosen color you have. I'm not sure why there's both Foreground-Transparent and Transparent-Foreground just yet.

I don't use stencils at all, but they may help with vector work as well as people with unsteady hands or who want to do mouse/touchpad art mainly... So here's where to find it!

On the top bar, click one of these aside from the highlighted STOP SIGN button and it'll bring up a series of red lines on your medibang screen.

The shapes are self-explainatory, except for the last three in the row; I'll address them in order.

When you press one of teh two before the very last one, it'll bring up something like this...

...And you'll click in places to make "pins" for the stencil, and when you're done setting up the stencil how you'd like, double-click, and you'll get something like below.

The three dots on the bottom sides and corner are for resizing it, and the red bar is for moving it around.

The very last option in the upper bar is the button that erases the stencil you set up before so you can make an new one with the two options detailed just a little bit above!

This one's a little bit of a weird one to find! In the upper menu bar, you'll have to find this menu and press it.

After that, it'll bring up this window....

"Line Width" is how thick the lines are, and "Border Color" is pretty self-explanatory.

...And it'll add convert the layer you're currently on into an "frame" layer. So make sure it's not an layer you're already using!

Medibang will automatically set you to "cutting mode" for cutting up the frame, but if you need to get it back, here is where...

The highlighted icon is the "cutter" one, and it splits up the frame into panels for you. However, the one above it - an polygon with an cursor-arrow in it - is also important for this too.

It just lets you move, and resize, the frame you have currently selected, so it can be useful for fixing an frame composition you messed up or such.

There's two kinds of "shape tools" here, and I refer to them as "hollow" and "filled".

Here's the "filled" one, and below, its controls (and options).

"rectangle" is an drop-down list that gives you the option of several shapes.

"Antialasing" is if the shape is pixelly-edged or not.

Round Corners is... how rounded the corners should be; mostly useful for the ones that are polygonal or square-y. 0% is not at all; higher numbers mean even more rounder.

Select from Center means it'll form from the "center" of the square if checked.

Constrain Proportion means it'll have even proportions if checked, meaning you can't have an square that's longer than it is wide; all four sides will be the same size.

Opacity is how opaque it will be; 100% being all the way, and 0% being super invisible.

Here's where to find the "Hollow" options, and I use these a lot! Below are the options and their details.

"Why do I use the hollow shape tools a lot?" Well... Fun fact, they actually, unlike the shape tools, take the texturing and looks of the shape (or lines) from your currently selected brush!

From left to right, before antialiasing:
-Line. Just a line.
-Spline Line. You make an line that's very angular.
-Freehand line. You can... freehand it into curves and such. Very useful for vector work.
Circle. A hollow circle!

The following two options are from Medibang itself, but i may as well as go over them!

Antialasing is as before; on, it makes it smoothly edged, off, it doesn't.

Correction makes it so that your lines are smoother; it's an "stabilizer" like Lazy Nezumi.

Here's where to find the paint bucket; on the left side.

from left to right (ignoring reference tab; refer to the image after this for that):

Tolerance - what colors it'll consider "fillable". 1 is zero basically, but the one actual shade you have (so blending brushes will not be fillable very well). The highter it is, the more it'll consider "fillable". Higher is better for blending brushes!

Antialiasing - if the filled part is smooth-edged or not. I leave this checked, but you can leave it checked.

Expand - how far you want it to fill from where it fills. 1 pixel is where I have it at most of the time, but I may bump it up to 10-20 for white borders under art for the fun border look, or a little further or lower depending on how thin or thick the lineart is.

Close gaps - this is an check; unchecked, it won't close gaps for you (i.e. small open areas like lineart you didn't close). Checked, it will do that, but it may miss some parts.
The white/blue squares next to it are the "radius" you want to see as an gap; 5 is a very big gap, and 0 is a very small gap.

Reference goes between "Canvas" and "Layer".

Layer means it references the layer you're on (so it splashes all of it the color you have selected on an empty one), and "Canvas" means it sees what's on other layers, meaning you can color in lineart on another layer by having this set to "canvas"!

Click the little box under the two color boxes on the left side (above R, G, and B) to paint with transparency. It behaves like an eraser with whatever brush you have selected! It's that easy!

However, remember that to draw normally again, you'll have to click the usual color; just right-clicking an color to pick it doesn't set it back to that color (unlike CSP. Maybe someday!).

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